1 -
THE ENVIRONMENT:
Snails
are raised in "escargotières". They are small parks of a few
m
2
assembled with wooden boards or breeze blocks. The professionals
generally use greenhouses. But the produced quantities are not the
same !
To protect
snails from predatory (birds and lizards), I installed a
plastic netting on the higher shutters. This netting
is available in the stores of do-it-yourself and garden-centers.
At
the bottom of the escargotière (under the compost), an old
wire netting will avoid the arrival of rats.
Density:
Foresee
150 to 200 snails/m
2 for the aspersa maxima. If
aspersa müller: 300/m
2.
Caution!! Do not envisage too large! Count
approximately 70 viable youngs snails by adult.
Example: |
you
buy 5 kilos of aspersa maxima (70 snails by kilo) it does 350 snails
approximately.
350*70 = 24500 youngs/150 = 163
m2! |
They
are only theoretical figures, but think there....
2 -
WATER:
Water is distributed by
nebulization
and not by watering. This last is too stressing for the youngs.
The
nebulization is carried out by diffusers fixed on a pipe of
irrigation.
It is enough to bore the pipe with a wick, to
screw the diffuser, it is finished!
|
Above,
detail of the nebulisazion
system in the
"escargotière". In this example, the pipe is fixed at the
top and
I screw a diffuser every 18.5' (50 cm). |
Nebulization
roles: - filling
of
the saucers (drinking troughs). Caution ! Don't install drinking
troughs too deep: drownings assured!
- reduction
of the temperature when the weather is too hot.
- waking
of snails to go to eat. That prevents that they remain stuck during
several days.
Under normal conditions, watering is
programmed every evening at 10 p.m. during 4 or 5 minutes.
When
the weather is hot (June 2005 for example), I sprinkled 4 times/day.
That decreased the losses. He yes! the snail likes neither the heat,
neither the cold (it dies below 0°), nor
draughts.
To limit heat, I installed one fencing
reed in bamboo above the "escargotières". It is effective
and not expensive! That's makes a litle hut !!
3 -
NUTRITION:
Food is distributed at
will.
On boards flour is deposited. Think of protecting food from
rain and watering. A reversed gutter will make the deal
perfectly.
According to my diponibilities, I use 2
kinds of flours. In the 2 cases, it is necessary to foresee limestone
for the shell formation.
Receipt
1: - 30%:
calcium carbonate
- 70%: piglets
food (P35)
- Minerals for laying hens
Receipt
2:
- 30%: calcium carbonatev
- 70%:
various flours (corn, pea, bean, etc...)
- Minerals
for laying hens
The calcium carbonate:
| Caution for the carbonate!
There
is nonfood
carbonate.
That which I use is available in the agricultural
cooperatives. It is sold in very fine powder, like flour.
We
also can find it in the form of micro-granules. I did not test, but the
snails are animals, not crushers!
In place
of carbonate, you can give them crushed chalk or precipitated
chalk. |
|
Piglets flour (P35):
| |
P35
advantage is being a mixture of several cereals: corn, sorghum,
barley, oil cake soya bean, rice, corn and calcium carbonate. |
The mineral complement:
| This
mineral food aporte following minerals:
calcium, phosphorus,
sodium, magnesium, methionine, lysin, manganese, zinc, iron,
copper, cobalt, iodine and selenium. It is enriched with vitamins A,
D3, E, C, B1, B2 and K3. |
I
also give them pastes (risings), dry bread, zucchini, salad (that, they
like!!), tomato, apple, pear, melon, banana, spinach, cutter, celery
turnip, water melon, radish, cabbage, etc...
The
flour is in fact only a complement! Their food is according to the
products coming from the garden.
There also exists in the
trade a complete feedingstuff for heliciculture. I did not test, but
that exists!
At
the bottom of the "escargotière", I installed wooden
pallets (untreated preferably) so that they can shelter. I
also
pose lean on the walls, small planks from 40 to 50 cm broad (of
the boards to be stuck).
I use the 2 systems. The main thing,
it is that they can stick somewhere.
Do not forget
to sow grass before installing the pallets and snails. The grass has
the advantage of not (or little) being consumed by the snails. So this
vegetable cover will improve
the waste elimination left by your snails. I also mix with the
lawn, seeds of clover and colza. They adore!
Think hygiene!
Remove empty shells, excesses of droppings and the food not consumed. A
good hygiene is PRIMARY IMPORTANCE!
A nauseous
odor
and the arrival of
flies
is factors of alarm not
to be neglected.
4 -
THE FENCE:
On the photograph (a little
higher) of the "escargotière", you can see, in top of the
wall, a white rod. It is above that the electric fence will be fixed.
Concerning
the barriers leak-preventer, I preferred to develop the subject in
another page
entirely dedicated to the systems of fences.
At
the hour I write these lines (March 4, 2006), my
"escargotières" are in sanitary emptying.
As soon
as they are full, I would present the continuation to you.
With
soon.....
And here!! We are on March 11, 2006 and
the rearing started well!
5 -
THE REARING:
The reproducers are awake
at the end of February - beginning of March. The snails are
protected from possible cold by the demounting of P17 on the
"escargotières". I gain 5°C, that
is not negligible.
The layings will begin 15 days after the
waking.
It is at this time that the surveillance is
daily. This detailed attention concist "to mark" the layers with a
plastic reference mark. After 2 days, when the snail finished its
laying, I recover eggs to put them on a bed of compost in a
mini-greenhouse. This last one will be placed in a room at 20°C
approximately.
It is necessary to keep an important
water content until the blossoming.
Laying
of March 30, 2006 |
Mini-greenhouse
with 5000 eggs
|
3
weeks afterwards, it is the blossoming. All the reproduction of snails
is explained in detail
here.
|
Young snails
of age
some days |
The
youngs are put in the "escargotières" at the age from 7 to
approximately 15 days.
If all is well, they will become adult
in 5 to 6 months.
| Everything is in
place: colza, the
pallet, the gutter to protect the flour from water, automatic watering,
the barrier leak-preventer (gutter turned over with the grease-salt
mixture), the water bottle open at the 2 extremities in which
flour is deposited. |
6 -
THE FAST:
The fast consists in making
eliminate possible toxic grasses that the snail was able to ingest.
So
it is useless to make fast the snails coming from your rearing. It will
be simply necessary to make them disgorge.
To make
fast our dear gastropods, lock them into a wooden or
plastic box (banish metal). For the bottom, I fixed a small netting
which makes it possible to make fall the dejections out of the box.
Personally,
I make fast snails 10 to approximately 15 days. At the beginning of the
fast, I give them flour of corn or spaghettis believed (that helps to
eliminate).
When the fast is finished, it is necessary to
make them disgorge!
|
Some young
aspersa
müller found at the edge of the Garonne |
7 -
THE DISGORGEMENT:
The disgorgement
is
explained in detail
here .
8 -
THE PREDATORS:
Rats, moles, field
mouses, blackbirds, magpies, jays, corbels, lizards, hedgehogs,
beetles, snakes, slow worms, the man, etc.....)
Next
appointment: autumn 2006 for the techniques of hibernation (inter alia)
For
the questions, please use
the forum !
Recall additional pages:
Snails
anatomy Snail
sexuality Fences
How
to do
snail's drooling The
shellConstruction
of a fattening park Wallpaper Puzzle Olivier Gireaud
Place
of the rearing: St jory, located at the north of Toulouse, in
the high Garonne (31), France.
Mr. GIREAUD Olivier
42
chemin de la plaine
31790 St Jory
| |